Sunday 30 June 2013

Rubicon and Tor

So today I went to Rubicon to check out Zeke the Freak (8b). I warmed up and put a top rope on it. Had a go on all the moves and of course the one that stumped me was the crux which took quite a bit of figuring out, but I did do it and I was pleased to get the crux done in isolation. However, what really stumped me was the weird move into the left-hand flake -- I couldn't figure out how to do it! I had to leave that move in the end and decided I'd try it next session once I got some new beta on it.  In fact, I did get new beta that day after the session on Zeke the Freak, from someone at Raventor where I went to just to have a quick play on Powerband (V9), but my fingers were already aching so I didn't expect much really! I figured out the moves quickly and it was alright surprisingly, so I thought I'd have a go from the start -- but I dropped it on the crux at the end where I just seemed to freeze with my fingers millimetres away from the undercut. I rested and pulled on for another go but my fingers were past it! Next time I'm at Raventor when I'm not tired it should go pretty quickly with a bit of luck.

                                                 Me on Powerband, photo (Alison McKee)


Working Zeke The Freak, photo (Alison McKee)

It was a good day in all! So hopefully this summer Zeke The Freak may go, I would be overjoyed if it did!

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