Wednesday 28 May 2014

Font February 2014

This would be my 4th trip to font, I was excited and generally felt strong to get some good ticks! I went in a large group of the "boulder central" lot all of us ready for a good trip and everyone feeling strong. The trip didn't start off very well with the weather so bad on the channal we had over nine ours of delays and got to our gite at 4am!

The next day the weather looked great, tired but psyched to go climb! We went to Buthiers as it was the closest and quicly warmed up at the main area next to the car park and headed over to the boulder which partage was on so we could try attention de chef d'ouvre 7A which went within a bit of trying it great problem and quite high for me! For the rest of the day I didn't climb much saving myself for other problems!

Photo: Patrick Cleary
The next day we went again to Buthiers as we all had problems we could get on there, i managed a quickish ascent of attention de chef d'ouvre assis 7B another good line just adding one move to the original problem again i then rested as we were going to sabot for a night session! We arrived at sabot the conditions were great took us a while to find the boulders as it was dark and we were only using floodlights again warming up on some typicall font style 6A's and B's that seemed near impossible! After that i ventured down to try Salle Gosse 7C after getting spat off on my first go i pulled on agaion and felt much better this time arriving at the crux last move i did this over and over until about short while later when the climb went i was suprised when i stuck the sloper i will post video footage of the ascent up soon! Video hopefully posted soon.



Photo: Tash Allcock
The next few days weather was bad with rain for 2/3 days after that we got a great session up at mont pivot where i managed to climb pancras assis F7C after jonny managed to complete it before me, with phsyche high we headed back to the gite to fuel up for a night session at an area just a short way from sabot iI warmed up and got on an 8a i forgot the name but it was solid and i couldnt touch it so i moved on to action direct F7A that i managed to flash. A short while later i look at alae ajacta est ata one move F7c i was no where near and slowly i got closer to this one move to a crimp of a massive undercut finally i latched the hold and managed to top out. It was a great relief to get this problem as every go it felt so close/

Photo: Tash Allcock
The next day or two weren't filled with many sends just trying hard problems overall it was a great font trip id like to thank everyone who went from Boulder Central and for driving me there and also the great company for the whole trip which meant we all came away with a good tick. Moreover like to thank Boulder Central for providing great training facilities, expert knowledge from fitforlifepersonaltraining  and also to Beyond Hope!

Duncan

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